Of all the Mediterranean food celebrations relating to Christmas, by far the most extraordinary one probably never took place there in the first place. By nearly all accounts, despite many cultural and culinary links to Sicily and the rest of southern Italy, the Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve apparently first appeared among […]
Author Archives: John
Recipe: Capesante alla Veneziana
Anyone who truly loves Venice, which means anyone who’s horrified by what’s become of the place at the hands of too many tourists, needs to duck into a small, smokey, shadowy bacaro for a few cicchetti. The experience might give you a modicum of faith in the human race again. Sure, it’s easy enough to […]
Review: Kaplan’s Adriatic World
Robert D. Kaplan is no newbie when it comes to the Balkans, a part of the world forever known to be unstable – even by Americans who couldn’t find a single Balkan country on a globe or map, with the possible exception of Greece. Democracy, Santorini and all that. So all we might know, picking […]
Review: ‘Ripley’ on Netflix
Not since Never on Sunday has the Mediterranean ever looked so very… black and white. Yes, thanks to an artistic decision by director Steven Zaillian, that’s how the new eight-part Netflix “limited series” called Ripley was shot. And while we’ll always love the endless variations on blue that are the Mediterranean, that decision now comes […]
Recipe: Sicily’s ‘Little Oranges’
The word arancini in Italian means “little oranges.” But in the Sicily that named them, going back to the Arab occupation in the 12th century, they are literally no such thing. They were named so, as you might expect, because of a physical resemblance. Some arancini – a deep-fried form of risotto – are round […]
Review: ‘Killer Heat’ on Crete
Based on our last few visits to Greece, the title Killer Heat might refer to the incendiary summer weather alone. But the words actually ride atop a new thriller set on the island of Crete that just started streaming on Prime. Yes, we did say NEW thriller, though its roots and numberless homages reach back […]
Recipe: Greek Fakes Soupa
One of the most surprising things to many Americans visiting Greece is how much pork is enjoyed there. Somewhere along the way, the world bought into the notion that in Greece lamb is the only meat. Even delicious gyros, invented not in Athens but in Chicago, incorporate lamb into their signature mixture of pulverized meats. […]
Culinary Profile: Morocco
To most people from anywhere else, Moroccan cooking is one huge explosion of exotic beauty – made all the more so by the faces and clothing of the cooks and servers, the shimmering fabrics flowing all around, and the otherworldly architecture giving human life a chance to survive in the vast desert. Yet far from […]
The Lemon Caper Love Affair
We all know what to do when life hands us lemons – we make lemonade, of course. But what would we do if there were no lemons. From its western meeting with the Atlantic Ocean to its eastern terminus with Syria, Lebanon and Palestine, the Mediterranean world would certainly never have looked, felt or tasted […]
Recipe: Beirut’s Baba Ganoush
Quite a few Mediterranean countries, cultures and cuisines make their claims (often passionately) on the eggplant-tahini dip called baba ganoush, though in the United States it seems to be considered mostly Lebanese. It is, however, also a national dish of countries as diverse as Iraq, Yemen, Jordan, Armenia, Palestine, Turkey and Egypt. Like hummus and, […]