One of the most surprising things to many Americans visiting Greece is how much pork is enjoyed there. Somewhere along the way, the world bought into the notion that in Greece lamb is the only meat. Even delicious gyros, invented not in Athens but in Chicago, incorporate lamb into their signature mixture of pulverized meats. And lamb for Greek Easter is a tradition never to be missed – for flavor or theology.
Yet pork, and ham in particular, fits perfectly into the Greek flair for maximum flavor mixed with maximum economy Greece has been a very poor country (for a tangle of reasons, and every Greek has his theories) through most of its history. Even when it prospers, usually from tourism, there are still poor, remote villages and villagers that don’t get to participate in the windfall. Thus, the traditional Greek reliance on vegetables, far more than meats or seafoods, for sustenance. And thus the importance of ham and other pork products to add flavor and variety to a nearly endless procession of beans, root vegetables and crunchy, chewy greens.
The independent-minded island of Crete seems to be even more pork-centric than most other parts of Greece. One visit spending meals with everyday people (and not, therefore, ordering from restaurant menus) featured so much pork that we asked, walking on eggshells a bit, why there wasn’t any lamb. There was a shrug followed by a grunt. Together they seemed to say, “Do I look like I’m made out of money to you?”
You name a kind of bean, and Greeks are sure to love it already. Beyond the imported joys of (Arab/Turkish) hummus, chickpeas are enjoyed in many settings. A wide variety of beans end up mixed with other vegetables in soups and, alternately, in salads. And then there are lentils, grown in many parts of Greece but also available with a very small pricetag in food shops large and small.
Lentils are the centerpiece of one of our favorite Greek soups. Called fakes (FAHCK-es), or even more cleverly fakes soupa, it pairs lentils with enough other vegetables to be a hearty vegan meal but can also be even more satisfying made with whatever ham you have. This soup is devoured in Greece all year round for both healthfulness and pleasure. And in its vegetarian version, it’s omnipresent during the Orthodox Lenten observance leading up to Easter. By Easter, with its rich Christian symbolism, both Greek seasons and Greek taste buds are more than ready for some celebratory lamb.
FAKES SOUPA
As you know, lentils are available dry in several colors, and you certainly have our permission to use whatever color you prefer, or even to mix them for visual appeal. On the other hand, Greeks insist the different colors of lentil taste different too, and they have different names for soups made with each. Fakes is traditionally made with green or brown lentils, which if you’re in a hurry, also are available pre-cooked in cans.
2 cups (16 ounces) dry green or brown lentils
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups cubed ham
1 large onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 bay leaves
6 cups chicken broth
2 cups tomato sauce
1 potato, peeled and cut in small cubes
3 tablespoons dried parsley flakes
Salt and black pepper to taste
Red wine vinegar (optional)
Before cooking, soak the lentils in warm water for about 4 hours, changing out the water every hour of so. Rinse and drain the lentils. In a large pot or kettles, heat the olive oil. Brown the cubed ham to render fat and flavor. Add the onion, carrot and celery and cook until the edges turn golden brown, then stir in the garlic and bay leaves for 1 minute. Do not burn the garlic. Add the broth and tomato sauce, bringing to a boil. Add the soaked lentils, cubed potato and parsley flakes. Simmer covered for about 30 minutes, until lentils and potatoes are tender. Season with salt and pepper. When serving in bowls, you may add a splash of vinegar on top to make the flavors really pop. Serves 6-8.
